The Ultimate Birb Guide to Chicago
Time for something completely different!
The other day, I tweeted about Chicago, and how underrated it is as a food city. It was a cute throwaway tweet, inspired by the fact that I’d just given recommendations to two sets of friends about What To Eat And Drink In Chicago, and the two sets of recommendations were completely different.
Many people replied, insisting that Chicago is “known as a food city”, and is properly rated… these people went on to mention italian beef, deep dish, and the usual “fancy” suspects - Alinea, Blackbird, Jeong, Parachute, Au Cheval, Girl & The Goat. All of those places are Fine! Good, even! Don’t get me wrong, these places are well deserving of their status. They’re just not the Chicago I’m talking about.
Personally (and this is apparently a very divisive statement) I don’t know a single person that’s ever even had an italian beef*. In the handful of years I’ve lived here, I’ve never once gotten a group of friends together to go eat deep dish. To me, those things are for tourists.
If you’ve never been to Chicago, everything I just mentioned is worth doing. If you have never been here: Get some pizza, see the bean, go shopping on Michigan Ave, have a drink on the riverwalk! You’ll have a great time, and I encourage it.
If you have been to Chicago before, have done those things, and are ready to see a completely different side of it - I wrote this for you (and so I could link you this when you ask for recommendations).
I know that if you’re reading this, you’re expecting this to be finance related in some way, shape, or form. If that’s what you’re here for, you’re going to be disappointed.
I won’t be talking about foreign reserves in Sri Lanka. I won’t be talking about the economics of war and what Russia has done to the Ukraine. I won’t even be talking about commodities markets and how something like wheat futures affect our food prices, and here’s why: I just really love food. I always have: I love sharing it, I love getting people together and introducing them to things they’ve never tried, I love the conversations we have over dinner, I love exploring new foods.
I think food is the best way to learn about a different culture, and the best way to start to understand different people. I think that if you want to fix things like xenophobia, tribalism, you start by showing people how incredibly good other culture’s food is. It’s really hard to hate somebody in between bites of their food. It’s hard to walk away from another culture’s cuisine and think “nothing here was worthwhile”.
I think food is a universal language that everyone can understand, everyone can appreciate, and everyone can find value in. Food, to me, is living history - you can taste the influences of trade routes in it, you can taste colonial rule in it, and you can see how important different foods were in different periods of time. It isn’t done, because it can never be done. There will always be somebody innovating, trying something new, and telling a story with their food. I want to hear (eat) every story.
This will not be a complete list. I won’t claim to have eaten my way through this entire city. I don’t think I could, even if I had unlimited money and free time, because there’s just so much. I have a personal “to eat” list with more than 400 places. I’ve also only lived on the north or west sides, and I don’t have a car. This means I haven’t given the South side the attention it deserves. When I can, I will.
I’ve already spent too much time on this intro, so without further ado, here’s where you should loosely eat/drink in Chicago.
River North, Loop, Gold Coast, Old Town:
Berkshire Room, 15 E Ohio St.
This is my favorite non-dive bar in Chicago. It’s a hotel bar, but it’s not what you think when you think Hotel Bar. The Berkshire Room is a cocktail bar, and they take their cocktails very seriously. The mood is why I like it so much: downstairs is dimly lit (but not dark!) with lots of mid-century modern lighting accents, comfortable couches, and a huge bar. It’s the perfect place for a second or third date, or to bring your parents for an after-dinner drink that won’t kill your wallet.
Upstairs, called the Bodega, is a little different: it’s slightly more brightly lit place for a mid-afternoon or post-work drink. The Bodega looks like a private library, with a bookshelf full of 1950’s doodads, deep brown woods, mid-century modern lighting, and a rap playlist that keeps it from feeling stuffy.
As for the drinks, Berkshire room has a seasonal menu, so the cocktail selection does rotate - if you get the chance, try the Scorpio Rising, which is vodka, peach liqueur, lemon verbena, benedictine, and peychaud’s.
If you’re not sure what you want, order the Dealer’s Choice: you pick a spirit, a flavor profile, and some glassware, and let the geniuses behind the bar come up with something just for you.
Note: I wouldn’t recommend coming here hungry - while they do have some snacks, they’re called Bites, and while good, aren’t substantial.
Tanta, 118 W Grand Ave.
Great for everything from brunch with friends to slightly-casual business meetings, Tanta is for everyone.
Peruvian food itself is incredibly interesting to me - there’s a lot of Asian influence due to trade routes and migration patterns, and that plays well with traditional south American cuisine. Tanta celebrates this with their dishes, and especially with the Nikkei Bar (Thursday - Saturday). Gorge yourself on nigiri with aji amarillo rice, or the gran micha cebiche, which is a lovely ceviche studded with fat chunks of tuna swimming in a smoky leche de tigre sauce. If you’re in the mood for something a little heartier, try the lomo saltado, a stir-fried beef with vegetables and soy sauce.
Don’t forget the drinks! Try the pisco sour, which is Peru’s national cocktail, or if you’re in the mood for something spicier, the El Cholito (pisco, cucumber, jalapeno, ginger, bitter bianco, vermouth, and taijin) might be up your alley.
Ema, 74 W Illinois St.
Ema is lighter mediterranean food done right. It’s on the nicer side - bring your parents here for a late lunch, or a date for dinner. The dishes here are generous, but do follow a small plate format, so be prepared to order 2-3 dishes a person to share family-style.
Some things I’d recommend: grilled octopus (served with fingerling potatoes and a preserved lemon vinaigrette), crispy potatoes (mizithra, rosemary, scallion crema), brussel sprouts (crispy shallots, pumpkin seeds, sherry glaze), and the lamb & beef kofta (lemon, olive oil, tzatziki, and yellow rice). I also had a crab-based dish, but it doesn’t seem to be on their menu anymore. If you happen to see something there with crab in it - get it.
For drinks, there’s an extensive wine list, and a decent cocktail list, but the real fun is on the ‘reserve’ cocktails. I don’t think I can do a better job describing this one drink than Ema can, so here’s what their menu says:
“El Pandillo Margarita is a barrel-rested tequila made by the incredible camarena family using sustainably harvested rainwater and spring water; combined with an orange liqueur that was created for Napoleon in the 1700s.”
So, if you’re feeling it, why not drink like Napoleon?
Havana Grill, 412 N Clark St.
I love Cuban food. I’ll mention another cuban food place later on, but if you’re in River North and want Cuban, Havana Grill is legit. The music is always on, the drinks are always flowing, and the food always hits the spot. They’ve got a lot of outdoor seating post-covid, and I don’t know how long it’ll last, but this is a great spot to sit outside and drink with friends when it’s warm out.
For starters, get some tostones. These might be the biggest tostones I’ve ever seen, and the garlic mojo that comes as a dipping sauce is out of this world.
If you’re in the mood for something spicy as a main dish, the Pollo Horneado con Platano (citrus juice and spice-marinated chicken breast baked in plantain leaves) is very good, but very spicy. If you’re looking for something less spicy, their Ropa Vieja (shredded beef cooked in an inviting tomato sauce) is solid.
Pair this with pitchers of guava, peach or mango mojitos and spend the afternoon eating, drinking, and hanging out to some good music.
Mogadishu, 931 N Orleans St.
First things first: you’re not coming to Mogadishu for the vibes. You’re coming here for the food. You’re coming here because you want Somalian, and a lot of it. Get the chicken suqaar with bariis (chopped cubed chicken grilled with onions, green peppers served with rice), or the lamb shank, if it’s between 3-6pm. Try the hilib ari (boiled goat meat) with anjera (a kind of spongy flatbread) if you’re feeling adventurous.
As a side note: while Mogadishu is available on Ubereats and Doordash, they’d prefer if you come in and order. You get a lot for the price - if you’re within walking distance, pick it up yourself and spare them them (and you) the exorbitant fees.
Milk Room, 12 S Michigan Ave.
The Milk Room is a cool spot for a special occasion. You will need to make reservations well in advance. Milk Room is a micro-eight-seat micro bar, and the room couldn’t comfortably hold more seats than that, anyway. The focus at Milk Room is on classic, spirit-forward cocktails that utilize extremely rare, vintage spirits and hard to find ingredients.
There’s some history in this recommendation - Milk Room used to be an actual speakeasy, used by members of the Athletic Club during prohibition, and they’ve kept the feel alive. The room is darkly light, you enter through an unmarked set of stained glass doors, and you’re limited to 60, 90, or 120 minutes. You’ll sit fairly close to everyone else at the bar, which makes meeting new and interesting people easy to do, but the mood is subdued enough that you can make this a private affair if you’d like.
I don’t think you can get out of here for less than $400, but between the expertly curated cocktail list and the carefully selected, though extensive spirits list, that isn’t hard.
Note: allegedly, some small bites are available, but I would not come here hungry.
Forastero, 449 W North Ave.
If you like tacos, Forastero is Korean-Mexican fusion done right. The tacos are out of this world, with interesting flavor combinations. I get three or four, and end up with leftovers, but there’s a lot worth getting.
Try the sesame kalbi, which is grilled short-rib in a korean marinade served with cilantro, onions, a leafy garnish, and homemade dressing, or the porky pig, which is yucatan-style pork roasted in banana leaves, topped with lime-cured habaneros and onions. If you’re not in the mood for tacos, get the tamales.
Old Town Ale House, 219 W North Ave.
If you’ve ever thought to yourself “I could really go for a beer with some friends while I stare at a painting of Rod Blagojevich being strip searched” this is the place for you… and there’s not just one painting, the entire bar is covered in them. Look for the naked Sarah Palin on a polar bear rug or Putin ballerina dancing. Try to go earlier rather than later because this place is packed after about 8pm. It’s also cash only, though there is an ATM inside, in case you forget, run out, or want to play something on the jukebox.
Happy Camper, 1209 N Wells St.
Are you and your friends between the ages of 19 and 26? Would you like to get drunk in a place with Christmas lights, a couple of flat screens for the sports watchers, a disco ball, and it’s like, nice-ish? Did you find yourself in Old Town against your will? Don’t worry, it happens. When you’re trying to please everyone, or you find yourself in Old Town with no idea what to do, the answer is always Go To Happy Camper.
Happy Camper is a crowd pleaser for a reason - it’s good and you can get a cocktail pitcher for $40. If you’re indecisive, the cocktail menu is… extensive. Try the Feelin’ Cute (Strawberry Gin, Cucumber, Mint, PAMA, Lemon, Demerara Sugar), though you really can’t go wrong with a Big Ass Lemonade, which is exactly what it sounds like: 32 oz of vodka and lemonade for $20.
Another point for Happy Camper is that the food is good, creative, and hot. For apps, there’s something about the way their loaded potato skins come together that really is the perfect potato skin bite. The real star for mains here is the Tony, which is a pizza, topped with prosciutto, spinach, caramelized onion, sun-dried tomatoes, balsamic, goat cheese, and cream cheese.
While the food is mostly pizza, and standard pizza at that, there’s creative toppings and vegan and gluten free options, providing something for even the most high-maintenance person in your group. No one has ever had a bad night out at Happy Camper.
Division Street Bars, 5 Division St to 26 Division St.
I would be remiss to not point out that there is a heavy hitting bar scene along Division Street between State and Dearborn. The best one for brunch is Hopsmith - if you ask nicely, they won’t even bother with the orange juice for the bottomless mimosas on the weekends. If you’re looking for a place to bar crawl, or just a standard bar, go to Division Street: Mothers, Butch McGuires, and the Lodge Tavern are waiting for you and your boys after you’re done pregaming to Kid Cudi.
Note: If you end up at The Hangge Uppe, you were out too late.
Logan Square
Jibaritos Y Mas, 3400 W Fullerton Ave.
This is a sandwich shop. However, this is not your typical sandwich shop: it’s a jibarito shop. What’s a jibarito, you ask? Jibaritos are proof that god is spanish and also that he loves us. Jibaritos are a gigantic sandwich, with meat, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, and mayo stuffed between gigantic smashed and fried plantains.
Jibaritos a uniquely Chicago sandwich, born in ‘96 at Borinquen Restaurant, a Puerto Rican joint in Humboldt Park. The chef had been reading about a sandwich that substituted plantains for bread, got inspired, and the humble jibarito was born. I’ve tried many a jibarito, all inspired by the original, but Jibaritos Y Mas is honestly the best jibarito I have ever had.
Get the pollo jibarito, and get extra hot sauce. I get mine with no cheese, and I add avocado. I have also never finished an entire jibarito in one sitting. The jibarito is an honest, hardworking sandwich that will keep you full for hours.
I was writing this particular review around dinnertime, and ended up ordering one for dinner. I can’t even write about them without wanting one. Oops.
Andros Taverna, 2542 N Milwaukee Ave.
In direct contrast with the previous recommendation, Andros Taverna is a place you go to for the vibes, along with the food.
Andros Taverna has some chops - it was recently named one of Esquire’s best new restaurants in America. The menu is seasonally driven, traditional Greek, but with high quality, fresh ingredients, and playful twists.
Inside is a beautiful space, covered in plants that as far as I can tell, are actually real. The tables are on the smaller side, but the setting is intimate, and the conversation level just loud enough that you could close your eyes and forget you’re in Chicago and not on the coast of Greece.
As far as mezzes go, the tiny cretan sausages are definitely not tiny, but they are delicious, and along with the char grilled kalamaki and grass fed beef keftedes, are a nice way to round out a first course. Get a few things, because the plates are on the smaller side. Go for the mezze collection if you’re feeling hungry and have a few friends with you.
As for the mains, I personally love octopus, and the mediterranean octopus here is to die for. It’s soft, tender, and coated with beautiful olive oil… the octopus here makes the top 5 of octopi I’ve ever eaten.
Seasonally, they offer veal on a bed of soft, warm potatoes. If you can get past the whole ethics thing, I can’t say enough good things about the veal here. It’s fall off the bone tender, juicy, and rich enough to make you only feel a little guilty for eating it.
I’ve made it this far without even mentioning the drink menu. If you’re a cocktail person, get the Midas Touch, which is tequila blanco, grapefruit, lime, and honey. Wine lovers rejoice: the wine selection here is extensive (they actually call it a Wine Book) and it’s full of really nice wines that I can in no way pronounce.
If you’re looking for a nice night out, and to eat some really high quality food, Andros Taverna doesn’t disappoint.
Ravenswood
Bayan Ko, 1810 W Montrose Ave
I have tweeted about this place before, because it may be my favorite restaurant in the entire city, and I will go very far out of my way to get it. Bayan Ko is Filipino-Cuban fusion, and I absolutely love the food they make. The fusion is clever, playful, and really vibrant - you can tell they’re proud of what they do. The storefront is on the cozy side, with maybe 25 seats, tucked right next to the Montrose stop of the brown line. The aesthetic is cute - there’s some hanging plants and some edison lights, but you don’t come here for the mood.
Their menu is the perfect amount of options, and you can’t go wrong. Personally, I love the sisig nigiri. The quail egg is the perfect touch, and I think I could eat 100 orders with no problem. The sisig is soft, warm, and mixed with the creaminess of the quail egg, it makes for a really nice bite. The award winning adobo wings are a perfect appetizer - well sauced, and incredibly crispy, but not enough on their own for a full meal. You’ll need some extra napkins, so order those with your food. As an entree, you can’t go wrong with the cubano fried rice. The egg on top is fluffy and light, and they’re generous with the meats. If that’s not your style, try the lechon made from luscious chunks of pork belly, or the bistec (the mojo sauce is out of this world). Bring some hungry friends, and order a couple of apps and entrees to share, family-style. If you still have room after this, top it off with ube ice cream.
Pro tip: it’s BYOB. Hit the “Best Buy Food and Liquor” on the other side of the brown line for a bottle of wine or a beer.
Wicker/Bucktown
Urbanbelly, 1542 N Damen Ave.
I can’t say enough good things about Urbanbelly. I live near it, and I have eaten so much Urbanbelly that I might have to admit that I have a problem.
Urbanbelly is Asian-fusion, and they do it right. I can’t endorse this place strongly enough using words, so I’ll tell you a fun fact about myself instead: when I first started getting hangovers, I decided I needed a go-to Hangover Fixer, and Urbanbelly’s coconut curry pho (rice noodles, lemongrass chicken, cilantro, bean sprouts, in a young coconut broth) is so effective as a hangover cure that nothing else really works for me anymore. It works so well that I’m almost afraid to order it when I don’t feel bad, because I don’t want to ruin whatever Pavlovian response I’ve got going.
If that doesn’t make you hungry, the katsu udon soup (udon noodles, katsu chicken, mushrooms, peanut pesto, cilantro, in a garlic peanut pho broth) is a solid, hearty meal that will keep you warm in the awful Chicago weather.
Protip: get the togarashi fries and a coconut drinking vinegar if you really want to live my hangover lifestyle.
Oromo Cafe, 1912 N Western Ave.
This is one of my favorite cafes in all of Chicago. Nestled under the Western stop of the Blue Line, Oromo is a turkish-inspired, woman-owned, health-conscious cafe.
I know I lose people when I talk about vegan food, alternative milks, and gluten-free places, but I have allergies, and I love places that accomodate for them. Oromo is one of those places, and to the extreme. I’ve seen less “crunchy” options in Vermont. These crunchy options, however, are really, really good. Oromo has something like 10 different nut milks, a full bakery, and a decent breakfast menu. I’ve brought people here who have no allergies, and even by their standards, it’s pretty damn good.
Try the Hazelnut Horchata Latte (House-made horchata (toasted hazelnut milk, rice milk, coconut milk, cinnamon, maple syrup, vanilla extract) with organic Peruvian espresso, topped with cinnamon), the red velvet scone (if they have it - it’s seasonal and it sells out quick, and for a reason), the Goat Cheese Toast (Walnuts, strawberry, lemon zest, goat cheese, thyme, honey), or a Tandoori Tomato Cucumber Bagel Sandwich (whatever bagel you want, topped with cream cheese, tomato, cucumber, tandoori seasoning).
Pick up some turkish delights as a treat for later. My favorite is the saffron-pomegranate, but you can’t go wrong with any of them.
Violet Hour, 1520 N Damen Ave
Violet Hour is a popular bar in Wicker. You may have heard of it, and that’s for a good reason - Violet Hour is cool. Until Covid, when they put some seats outside, you could not find Violet Hour unless you knew where you were looking for, because it’s a speakeasy, and the door to the bar is in the mural that covers the entire building. Despite being a large building, it gets pretty full, pretty quick, so err on the side of making a reservation.
Violet Hour takes their drinks seriously. Every time I go, I end up having to Google at least one ingredient in a drink I think I want to order. That’s not to say that the staff isn’t knowledgeable and friendly - they are, and they love talking about spirits - it’s more to illustrate how esoteric some of their drink components are. The menu changes too much for me to recommend anything in particular, but the bar is well stocked, and the staff will help you find something, even if I can’t.
Serai, 2169 N Milwaukee Ave.
If Bayan Ko is my favorite restaurant in Chicago, it’s because it’s really a tie for first with Serai. Serai does Malaysian food, and is a real hidden gem, in that it’s hard to find, the signage is bad, and the exterior is underwhelming. The first time I went there, I actually couldn’t find it, and had to look at the street view on Google maps. If you go: it’s the place on the corner that looks like it isn’t open. Look for the green font on the door.
As uninviting as the exterior is, the food at Serai makes up for it, and then some. I’ve had Malaysian food at critically acclaimed places in New York that wasn’t as good as this.
If you’re new to Malaysian food, there’s a lot to try - Malaysia itself is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, with a lot of different influences, from Chinese and Indian settlers to British and Dutch colonizers, and this is reflected in the food itself.
If you’re not sure what to get, the Singapore noodles (rice noodles seasoned with curry powder, bean sprouts, bok choy and soy sauce with your choice of meat) are a good place to start. While this is technically a Cantonese dish - and isn’t even popular or known to Singapore - Serai does these noodles really well.
For something a little more Malaysian, the curry laksa may be the best bowl of laksa you’ll ever have. Laksa is a spicy noodle dish, common in a lot of Asia, but each region tends to have their own spin on it. Serai’s is special - it’s a rich and spicy curry coconut milk soup, with noodles, BBQ pork, chicken, shrimp, fish ball, egg and a tofu puff. Serai says that their laksa is “Peranakan cuisine, which is a combination of Chinese and Malay cuisine”, and it’s really, really good.
If spicy soup doesn’t sound appealing, try the char koay teow, which is flat noodles stir fried over very high heat with light and dark soy sauce, chili, shrimp, squid, bean sprouts, chopped Chinese chives and Chinese pork sausage. Serai is generous with their meats - there’s more meat and seafood in this dish than there are noodles - and this is one of the most famous Malaysian dishes, perfected by street vendors and clearly made with them in mind.
I can’t finish this recommendation without mentioning the lamb rendang. Try the lamb rendang. Rendang originates in Indonesia, but it has spread to Malaysia, and is often called a Malaysian dish. Rendang is not unlike curry, though there’s significantly less sauce than a traditional wet curry would have. By slow cooking for hours in a coconut-based gravy, along with brown sugar, onions, and chilis, lamb is transformed into this incredibly tender piece of meat, packed with complex flavors and spices. Served with rice, it’s a hearty, delicious meal. Come to Serai hungry, and leave really, really full.
Fulton Market/West Loop
The Darling, 905 W Randolph St
The Darling is a multi-level bar, and a great spot for a drink, a date, or to hang out with some friends. The Library (upstairs) is very cool: think crushed velvet, rich mahogany, and lots of books for decoration. I’ve never personally been in the Ballroom (downstairs), but I’ve heard really great things about it. Come early, at an off time, or make reservations - the Darling is popular, and with good reason.
Try the Fox & The Hound (Wild Turkey, pisco, plum puree, apple cider, lime juice, cinnamon), order a charcuterie board for the table, and enjoy the setting.
Richard’s, 491 N Milwaukee Ave
There isn’t much to be said about Richard’s that somebody else hasn’t already said, and said better. It’s my favorite dive bar. Richards is an institution, and it is beloved in this city. It’s the last bar in Chicago you can still smoke inside of. They sell cigarettes behind the bar, they make a really strong drink, it’s relatively cheap, and they have a jukebox. You will forget what time it is here. You will most likely black out here. You will smell like smoke for the next two days after being here. You will love it.
Beatnik West Town, 1604 W Chicago Ave
This might be the most instagram friendly spot on my entire list. I would not come here starving, because while the food is insanely good, the portions are not what I would call “large”.
Try the scallops with jamon iberico (warning: they will bring you two scallops and it will cost you $24), and the ceviche con leche de tigre. Wash it down with a Dodge, Peary, Tango (Vodka, Amontillado, Amaro, Winter Spiced Pear Purée, Lemon, Angostura & Soda), or if you’re in the mood for something a little less sweet, the Two Minutes Turkish (Bourbon, Walnut Liqueur, Cardamom-Infused Turkish Coffee, Demerara, Pineapple, Mole, Orange Peel).
Rooh, 736 W Randolph St
You’ve probably had Indian food before, but you’ve never had Indian food like this. Rooh is so good, I ordered their Thanksgiving catering meal one year, and it was probably the tastiest Thanksgiving meal I’ve ever had.
You cannot order anything bad here. Order the Butter Chicken, and a chili cheese kulcha. Wash it down with an inspired drink, like the Pink City (Jalapeño Tequila, Guava, Chili, Lime, Masala) or the Hanging Garden Mimosa (Strawberry, Thyme, Rose, White peppercorn.)
Bar Takito, 201 N Morgan St
Bar Takito is fun. Loud on the weekends, and full of people celebrating just about anything, this spot is good for boozy brunch, a quick lunch bite, or any other time you’ve ever wanted a couple of tacos and a drink. The skirt steak tacos are juicy and tender (get some extra napkins ahead of time), and the coconut margaritas are tasty and sweet. If you’re in for brunch, give the arepa benedict a shot.
Uptown
Asia On Argyle/Little Vietnam
This is less of a specific recommendation, and more of an area, but it’s worth mentioning. On Broadway street, from about Foster to Lawrence, you can throw a dart and hit an amazing Asian restaurant, especially a Vietnamese joint. There’s a large community up there, and everyone has a favorite place to go. Most of them are on Argyle street. Take the Red Line north, and get off at the Argyle stop. As soon as you leave the station, you’ll realize you’re somewhere different - somewhere special.
In the before times, I would have recommended you stop off at Tank Noodle. It’s a really special bowl of pho. For political reasons, and the fact that they commit a ton of wage theft, I can’t make that recommendation any more in good faith, and I don’t want to suggest that you should support them. I only mention it to ask you to skip it, if I’m being honest.
There are dozens of other restaurants that deserve your business - for food that passes the Waffle House Test**, give Nha Trang a try at 1104 W Argyle. If exploring grocery stores is your thing (it’s my thing), duck into Thai Nam at 4925 N Broadway. Just walk down the street. Something will catch your eye, and it will be good. This is a fun area to explore, with lots of little boba tea and snack shops with colorful advertisements.
Big Chicks, 5024 N Sheridan Rd
I love this corner bar. You wouldn’t expect this bar in this neighborhood. You turn the corner off from little Vietnam, and you’re suddenly at a very queer bar? Regardless, something about Big Chicks makes sense.
There’s lots of gay bars in Boystown. This is not one of them. Big Chicks doesn’t fit the mold of “gay bar”, mostly because well, when they say “gay”, it moreso means queer. Leather daddy? Come on in. Subaru driving lesbian on her way back from moving in with her girlfriend of two whole dates? This is the place for you. Genderfluid? You bet you’re welcome here. Figuring your shit out and not sure what labels apply? Come have a drink. Big Chicks is inclusive, in the sense that you will find somebody from every walk of life in here, if you want to.
Beyond the crowd, there’s friendly bartenders, cheap drinks, and you’re right around the corner from a big bowl of pho when you come stumbling out of the bar. The bathrooms are clean, they play good music, and every inch of the walls is covered in pictures of women. What more could you want?
Carol's Pub, 4659 N Clark St.
Do you love sticky floors like I do? Does something about a dive bar just feel romantic to you? Do you like Nashville? Then you’ll love Carol’s Pub, a honky-tonk dive with live country-western music, line dancing, and karaoke. Drinks are cheap, on a nice day the windows will be open, and the bar is open until 4am. Typical bar food - burgers, fries, and wings - but sometimes that’s exactly what you want. There’s lots of flat screen TVs for sports watching, so there’s something for everyone here.
** For the uninitiated, the Waffle House test can be loosely summed up as “will the cook be outside smoking when you arrive?” If the answer is yes, you should eat there.
Pilsen
Pilsen Yards, 1163 W 18th St
This is a great spot for re-imagined latin street food, done well, and relatively inexpensively. If you can sit in their back patio, you absolutely should. It’s covered, there’s lots of heaters in the winter, and it’s beautiful - the roof is glass, there’s edison lights everywhere, and the back bar is cute.
This is a great place to start a night out. Stay a while, eat some tacos, have a few drinks, and listen to some music. They even have a DJ and dancing on Friday nights. As far as eating goes - start things off with the pina colada ceviche, and then order a ton of tacos - the lamb barbacoa and shrimp are their best. I’ve heard good things about the fish taco, but it’s tempura-battered, so it’s off limits for me. For drinks, I’m partial to the Last Straw (rum, lime, pineapple-mandarin, chamomile, bitters).
Carniceria Maribel, 1801 W Cermak Rd
This is a liquor store with a taco joint in the back. It is off the beaten path. It is the best taco in Chicago. You can allegedly order tortas and other items here, but coming here and ordering anything other than the carne asada or the al pastor tacos is probably illegal.
Skylark, 2149 S. Halsted Street
Skylark is one of those bars that is an institution. It’s cash only, there’s basically no full sized windows, and there is a jukebox. Divey, clean, and friendly, bring your cash and prepare to spend a lot of time you’ll remember very little of here. Open until 3am on Saturdays, you’ll find the most random people are patrons of Skylark, from UChicago graduate students to hardworking members of the Pilsen community who just want to stop in for a drink. Everyone loves Skylark, and as far as neighborhood watering holes go, it’s top notch.
Andersonville
Fiya, 5419 N Clark St
If you’re going to come here, try to dine outdoors. The back patio is beautiful, with lights strung from trees, and lots of shade. Even if the weather is going to be bad, especially if the weather is going to be bad, try to sit on the patio.
During covid, Fiya built “igloos” that are essentially plywood and plastic shelters, so that you could still be outside without freezing in the winter. They still have these “igloos” up, and they’re fun. I was lucky enough to sit in one during a rainstorm, and it made for a magical evening. If it’s going to rain, and you want Israeli food, this is the spot.
Aside from the dreamy experience I had, the food and drinks are next-level. Start with the Salatim, which is four small dishes with marinated olives, Jerusalem salad, and two pita. The four dishes are Labneh with olive oil and zaatar, roast eggplant, moroccan carrots, and matbucha tomato jam, and it’s a really lovely way to start a meal.
For an entree, get the Yafo Pot Pie. This is short rib, lamb Sausage, shakshuka, potato, egg, and dates, inside a pita crust. It’s one of the most interesting takes on a pot pie I’ve ever seen, and it tastes even better than it sounds. If you’re a full on carnivore, try the whole chicken (served with a knife right through it). For the vegetarian or carb-lover, order the Khachapuri, which is a Georgian dish of basically cheese and egg in a bread boat.
For drinks, try a Pomegranate negroni, or a Sumac old fashioned for an interesting twist on the classics. Fiya also serves a drink called a Saz-arak, which is a play on a traditional sazerac, but made with arak, a traditional distilled levantine spirit made from anise.
Defloured, 1477 W Balmoral Ave
Don’t let the fact that this is a gluten-free bakery put you off. I’m a big proponent of the idea that gluten free doesn’t have be synonymous with “sad”, and Defloured believes that too.
It doesn’t matter what you’re craving - be it bars, breads, cake pops, cakes, pies, cupcakes, or whoopie pies, Defloured has it.
Try the lemon bar, gooey for days and smothered in enough powdered sugar that you should probably schedule a checkup with your doctor after eating, the red velvet cake, rich and moist enough to make any southerner homesick, the “technically not a ding dong for legal reasons” Ding Dongesque treat, which truly is a treat, or the red velvet whoopie pie (which takes the red velvet cake and somehow makes it even more sinful) and then stroll down Clark Street for shopping, bars, music, and a general good time.
Lincoln Park:
Vinci, 1732 North Halsted St.
This list is pretty devoid of a couple of cuisines, most notably Italian and French. I am not the person for Italian, or French, with one exception: Vinci. Vinci is really good Italian food. Get some roasted baby eggplant for antipasti, and the arugula & belgian endive salad. If you’re looking for pizza (note: this is not deep dish, nor is it tavern style), try the Bianco - fresh mozzarella, pecorino, fontina, caramelized onion, arugula, and prosciutto. If pasta is what makes your heart sing, the Squid Ink Taglierini and the Tagliatelle (made with a veal tomato sauce) are great choices. If you still have room after dinner, try the panna cotta, or even sip on a dessert cocktail, and then roll yourself out of Vinci, having come dangerously close to a food coma.
Green Tea, 2206 North Clark Street
There are a million really good sushi places in Chicago. Kamaya, Kyoten, Sushi Dokku, Sushi Taku… all of them have great sushi. Green Tea also has great sushi, but that’s not why I come here. I come to Green Tea for their Chirashi. Chirashi means “scattered”, but in this sense, refers a collection of sliced sashimi on top of a bowl of sushi rice, often garnished with extras.
Chirashi is kind of like poke, but with some big differences. Unlike poke, chirashi does not have a sauce. Poke usually only has one or two kinds of fish in it, but chirashi has a lot of different kinds of fish. Green Tea’s chirashi comes with octopus, egg, tuna, whitefish, salmon, and a massive amount of rice.
If you’re super hungry, get an order of futomaki with your chirashi, and experience a wide spectrum of different flavors in each bite.
11 Degree North, 824 W Belmont Ave
11 Degree North is deceptive. It’s a Venezuelan arepa shop, and everyone I bring here goes through the same… journey of self-discovery.
What I mean by that is this: one arepa, you might think, is not a lot of food. You might even think this as you recieve your arepa, but trust me - one of these is incredibly filling. I try to bike here on weekends, and reward myself for the bike ride with an arepa. It’s a decent bike ride, and I work up an appetite. My favorite arepa is the Island Pork (pulled pork, BBQ, plantains, goat cheese and red onion), and I have left with leftovers.
If you’re in the mood for breakfast, the Parrot or the Perico will rock your world. The Perico is Venezuelan style scrambled eggs, red onion, tomato, caribbean cheese and bacon, while the Parrot is slightly more adapted for American tastes - 2 fried eggs, sausage, tomato, red onion, caribbean cheese and something called “Caribbean ranch”.
The arepas come out piping hot, stuffed to the max, and about halfway through one, you realize “oh my god, this is so much food”. If you need something to drink, get a Caribbean iced coffee, or try the papelon (venezuelan limeade) and enjoy.
Wrigleyville:
Nisei Lounge, 3439 N Sheffield Ave
I have something to admit: I am not a fan of Wrigleyville. It’s great if you’re a Cubs fan, it’s spectacular if you’re 18-24 and want to party, and it’s okay if you’re trying to go to Sunnyside, the overwhelmingly orange-hued dispensary with a very weird pickup system. Since I am none of these things, I don’t have much to say about Wrigley. I’ll admit it - I’m not the person to ask if you want to go to a bar there, with one exception: Nisei.
I love Nisei, and you should too. Nisei has 10K followers on twitter, a staff with a wicked sense of humor, and they may be a little fuzzy about what time they’re opening, but they’ll always greet you with a joke, a cold beer, and a great spot to watch whatever sport you want. Nisei is also the oldest tavern in Wrigley, and will probably be there after we are all gone. Here’s what their website says about them:
”Nisei Lounge is proudly celebrating its 67 year history as the oldest bar in Wrigleyville. Whether you are in Wrigleyville for a game, or live down the street, or just looking for a bar to hide out where your boss, spouse, priest or rabbi will never find you, Nisei Lounge is just where it has always been, ready and waiting to serve you a cold beer or a tasty cocktail in a bar that has not changed since Nixon was in the White House and the Cubs only had one World Series ring. There have been some recent improvements to the bar since its 1951 founding. But most notably are a web site, acceptance of credit cards, a new logo, six new flat screen TV's and new owners looking to continue the long tradition Nisei Lounge has provided the city of Chicago and neighborhood. Nisei will continue on as one of the last pubs in the area and will keep its character and atmosphere.”
If that doesn’t convince you to take a trip to Wrigley, I can’t help you. Get a Chicago Handshake. If you’re lucky, they might be experimenting with something like sport pepper malort, coffee infused malort, or, um, something else involving malort. They like malort… a lot, and after visiting, you’ll start to see why.
Humboldt Park:
1492, 2615 W North Ave
My family is from Miami, and I grew up eating cuban food. Cuban food was such a staple of growing up for me, it was what we served at my bat mitzvah. I am no stranger to cuban food, and I know that Humboldt is a Puerto Rican neighborhood, but trust me on this: go to 1492, and whatever you get, get it with a side of yellow rice.
If you absolutely demand to have a sandwich, the cubano is serviceable. I wouldn’t go for it when things like the pollo asado, lechon, and masitas are the real stars. I’m a sucker for carbs in any form, and if you’re a carb appreciator, get some yuca con mojo.
Save room for dessert, and treat yourself to a pastelitos de guayaba y queso, which is a fluffy, flaky pastry with guava and cream cheese inside, and one of my favorite foods on the planet.
Pozoleria San Juan, 1523 N. Pulaski Road
While Humboldt is traditionally known as a Puerto Rican neighborhood, you should come here to get some of the hominy stew more traditionally known as Mexican. PSJ has three different types of pozole - red, white and green - and a bunch of toppings to spice it up with. There’s other things on the menu, but you don’t go to a Pozoleria and not get pozole. It’s just not right.
Humboldt Park, 1400 N Humboldt Dr
Does it sound crazy to recommend food in an actual park? Yes. Is there anything better than strolling through Humboldt Park in the summer, mid-afternoon, taking in the smells of a thousand kinds of meats and elote carts, while listening to Spanish music, people picnicking, and the jingle of paletas carts? No.
Hit up an elote guy on the California Street boundary for a pile of corn smothered in chili, mayo, lime, cayenne, and salty cotija cheese, or stroll to one of the many other vendors along the edges of the park. The southern edge, near Division and California, has a lot of variety, and you really can’t go wrong with anything you pick. Try the chicharrón, or play it safe with a paleta, and walk to the boathouse to enjoy your meal. Bring a blanket to set out, and sit near the lake for a perfect Chicago summer afternoon.
Honorable mentions:
This article got very long. Chicago has so much! I couldn’t possibly write about everything I wanted to. Here’s some places I wanted to write about but didn’t have time, energy, or enough to say:
Ludlow Charlington’s: British racing green, dogs as royalty themed coffee shop. One of the best damn oat milk lattes I’ve had in this city.
Stan’s Donuts: good donuts. All over the city. Eat them.
3 Arts Cafe: eat dinner with your parents among the trees, but totally inside.
Big Star: for all your patio drinking, taco eating needs. Directly across from violet hour. Makes a damn good mezcal old fashioned.
Fulton Market Kitchen: I went here during restaurant week and it was phenomenal. If you find yourself in Fulton Market, this is a great spot for some upscale American eats.
Gallery Cabaret: I was offered a sneak peek at a potential summer item here: the malort slushie. Also, tamale guy showed up around 8pm and again around 10pm. Live music, good selection, quintessential neighborhood bar vibes.
Savor 27: I haven’t found better cajun food in the city yet. Get the gator and waffles, and learn that gator… really does taste like chicken.
The Up Room: hotel bar at the very top of the Robey. Good drinks, insanely good view, great date spot.
Federales: go here with the boys. Be rowdy. Ice shots. ‘Nuff said.
Emporium: I had a bad experience with Emporium, in the sense that I went there on a first date and they fell asleep at the table mid-sentence, but other than that, if you’re looking for a really cool video game arcade with loud music, and a decent beer selection, you can’t go wrong.
If you’re really that desperate for deep dish pizza, go to Pequod’s.
If you made it this far, wow! Thank you! I’ve said enough words, so here’s where I’ll stop. If you try any of these on my recommendation, please let me know how you liked it. I’m also always looking for new places to try - if you find somewhere that you think I’d like, please tell me about it.
* This statement about not knowing a single person who has had an italian beef has brought out the worst in people. I’ve been accused of lying about this. That would be an insane thing to lie about.
While I am sure somebody I have met has eaten an italian beef in their life, I have never been recommended one, I have never asked a group of friends what they wanted and had a single person say “Italian Beef!”, and I have never so much as seen a co-worker eat one. No one I am friends with has ever posted one on instagram, or tweeted a picture of one that I am aware of.
Not once has somebody texted me the phrase “Italian Beef” — I even searched all of my text messages. The phrase “Italian Beef” does not come up in conversations I am a part of, has never come up in any conversation I have been a part of, and is not something I have ever heard somebody say in real life.
I have never been eavesdropping on the el, metra, or bus, and so much as heard anyone say “Italian Beef”. I have no personal experience with the Italian Beef, and if it wasn’t for googling “what is Chicago famous for” when I first moved here, I honestly don’t know that I would even have heard of it. Only after I posted a screenshot of this bit on twitter did somebody come out and say they’d had one. Is that good enough?